Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tristan Bradford, Garet Bleir
Page Views: 346 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tristan Bradford on Nov 21, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Rack: 10 alpine draws, single rack to #4, doubles of .75 and .5

P1: Walk 200 feet past the main line on tai tower and start at the base of some slabs. You can see a large boulder wedged up right near the end of the pitch. Climb easy slabs with good gear until you find the anchors. 90' 5.7

P2: Unrope or belay your partner up 10 feet of easy class 3 with mild exposure. Start p2 at the base of some blocks. You can see a right facing corner above you. Clamber around the tree and pull into the lb roof. Get gear here .3, .5 and crank up to the bolt. Well protected now, use face holds and the seam to crank up to the tree (don't kill me i'm your protection!) and past it to bolted anchors. 90' 5.10+

P3: Unrope and walk 150 feet up towards the obvious bolted seam turned slab.
clip the first high bolt to protect you while you crank 11 moves off the deck until you gain a small usable crack .5, clip another bolt, place another .5, and then crank through thoughtfully protected hard slab moves. (few more bolts) 2 bolt anchor 90' 5.11

P4: Wander up past the anchors and go right to find a line of trees to use as protection. Either climb the face on the left or pull on the trees (carefully! also use long runners here) eventually pull up onto a slab and go left placing a nut and a small cam before cranking some fun face climbing moves on flakes (long runners) 2 bolt anchor 90' 5.8

P5: From the p4 anchors, unrope and walk up and right 150 feet until you reach a small ledge you can climb up onto. Build an anchor here (small cams and a large nut) and climb right 5 feet and then up, here you have a choice of going left (small finger crack 5.9), or straight up various paths of easy climbing on big ledges and flakes. Eventually find the anchors and a small belay ledge. 90' 5.8

P6: From the anchors you should see three bolts of another route, you're only going to clip the middle one. Climb up past a small bush in a crack and place a small nut up high. Lieback the flake until you can get to the middle bolt, one you clip it, move left with no hands until you crouch and grab a good ledge down and left. From there, pull around the left side and flick your rope around the bush before turning right and entering the wide crack. Use face holds until you top the crack out and then move left placing two small cams in a feature. From there, pull up into a stance on the feature and clip a bolt. Crank hard on the seam with NO feet until you can reach better holds and eventually the birds nest. Bolted anchors 100' 5.10

Retreat is easy as all anchors have biners and all raps can be done with a single 70 meter rope. 

Location

300 feet up and right of the 'main line" on tai tower

Protection

Bolts and cams. Bolted rap stations.

Photos

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