Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: John B. and Ely F.?
Page Views: 798 total · 12/month
Shared By: Grant Eaton on Nov 21, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is an overhung crimp route, which is very unique to 9 Mile Hill (especially the more south you get). It is contrived in that it avoids better holds above it; in this route, you only use the lowest holds on the arete of the boulder.

Start with your right hand on a full pad slot crimp and your left on an overhung rail. Move left, and match on a good sloper, then move your right hand to a half-pad hold. Work your feet, and do a hard move to a great right-hand. Match. Move left (or right?) to a pocket with a 3/4 pad crimp, then match? Getting to the last holds is very hard due to a lack of feet. I'd love to see it done. After the match, top out over the edge.

For more beta, see this video demoing and failing the moves. Please comment/DM me if you send this, and name it, and I'll add you as the FA.

This route is not yet completed. Get out there, and do it!

Beta video: https://youtu.be/XDwogme-pUs.

Location Suggest change

This ascends the south face of the Clay Stone. In the photo of Clay Stone, it is next to the tree on the right.

Protection Suggest change

It has a great landing, bring two pads.