Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Burton Rosenberger, Elisa Chang, Nov. 2018
Page Views: 95 total · 13/month
Shared By: Burton Rosenberger on Nov 20, 2018
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is closed to public use during March 1-August 1 to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Details

Description

Namesake comes from the hidden chimney feature in pitch 2 and the amount of lichen likely to be found on this climb ;) 

PITCH 1: Start 25ft left of Buffalo Solder on the right side of the rock forming a small roof over the trail. Climb up the face aiming straight for the top on small feet, odd hands, and limited gear (5.6) or scramble right up the right up the crack (5.3) Once on top of the small ledge above keep left of the small tree and climb up and left taking the path of least resistance aiming for a small roof. Pass the roof on the left and go straight up the inside of a small right facing corner till you can see the next big roof. Lichen dependent you might need to traverse slightly left before going straight up to the large belay ledge before the roof marking the start of PITCH 2: Start at the right facing corner below the roof and go straight up the corner passing the roof on the left. Take the path of least resistance straight up to a small roof formed from a rock starting at the chimney to your left. Place your gear and go straight up the chimney topping out through the V notch formed by two rocks at the top mantling out onto a large ledge. Belay at the tree on the next ledge or take it to the top and belay at the large pine tree above.

Rope drag can be an issue after pulling the chimney.
Setting up a belay at the start of pitch 2 can be a challenge. There is a small single feature shelf below the roof and a very large rock you can sling on both sides to protect a follower fall.

This climb is overgrown and "wild" even in what is considered "wild" by Lovers Leap terms ... so mind your feet / hands as this area hasn't been cleaned well yet!

Run out section on pitch 2 after the roof allows for a #4-#6 placement if you go straight up else traverse left into a vertical crack and go straight up there. 

Location

about 25' left of Buffalo Solder

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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