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| Type: | Ice, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,955 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | William Kramer on Nov 15, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
Timing is key for this absolutely fantastic route. Those cold, snowless early seasons are the perfect combination for this flow. The stream is a constant, so no snow required, just cold, and the less the amount of snow, the easier the approach. If you have a snowmobile, access to this would be a breeze all season. For the rest of us, driving to it is the choice way, as it is a long, long uphill hike back out, as I discovered when I first climbed it in 2016.
The route starts at a small concrete diversion dam at the start of the Duchesne Tunnel. Climb some low angle WI 2 for about 100’, reaching a large flat spot where a screw belay good be made if desired. This is where the fun starts. The ice turns into WI 3, going up and over bulges and cauliflowers to the final crux tube with a cone at its bottom and a good rest. This is the best part of the route, 30’ of swing swing, kick kick to the top. There are two bolts up high on climbers right for an anchor.
You can rap back down, walk back down, or keep your pons on and take a stroll up the gorge, climbing 4-5 small headwalls on the way. I personally find this to be the best way to end the route.
Just a tip if you’re doing the whole gorge, park in a small pullout on the left with a buck and rail fence about halfway down FS0027. Walk down the road to the switchbacks, then cut down through the trees to the gorge. Once at the gorge, drop in at the top of the falls and rap down. Pull ropes once on the bottom, and enjoy. After topping the falls, and strolling up the gorge, you will run out of ice. At this point, jump back up to the road and you should be pretty close to where you parked.
The route starts at a small concrete diversion dam at the start of the Duchesne Tunnel. Climb some low angle WI 2 for about 100’, reaching a large flat spot where a screw belay good be made if desired. This is where the fun starts. The ice turns into WI 3, going up and over bulges and cauliflowers to the final crux tube with a cone at its bottom and a good rest. This is the best part of the route, 30’ of swing swing, kick kick to the top. There are two bolts up high on climbers right for an anchor.
You can rap back down, walk back down, or keep your pons on and take a stroll up the gorge, climbing 4-5 small headwalls on the way. I personally find this to be the best way to end the route.
Just a tip if you’re doing the whole gorge, park in a small pullout on the left with a buck and rail fence about halfway down FS0027. Walk down the road to the switchbacks, then cut down through the trees to the gorge. Once at the gorge, drop in at the top of the falls and rap down. Pull ropes once on the bottom, and enjoy. After topping the falls, and strolling up the gorge, you will run out of ice. At this point, jump back up to the road and you should be pretty close to where you parked.
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