Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: none
Page Views: 173 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Nov 15, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is such a cool line it has to go! This route remains undone but it's open for business. Climb through beautifully sculpted rock to a ledge and the hanging arete above. From the ledge the climbing becomes harder, and suddenly impossible feeling when the arete becomes useless and the slab remains blank....for 8 feet. The holds resume again as one moves left for an airy little 5.10 dance on the slabby arete. One good hold in the blank section and this climb would go at 11a/b ***, but unfortunately it's probably v8 slab. Hop on it! A first ascent awaits the best slab climber around.

There are a couple redeeming qualities of the route and one is that you can sport aid past one bolt and still climb the airy arete above to the anchor at 5.10. Also, the beginning portion of the route leads to a ledge where another little 5.10 called Hide and Seek can be accessed. It leads to the same anchor as the arete. Climb the first 3 bolts to the ledge, move right about 20 feet and get on it! Once you're in the anchor you can work the impossible arete or climb a variety of short top rope variations on the featured face. A decent amount of climbing can be had from this one anchor, and it's the best way to get back to ground/trail level. Rapping a tree is the other option to get off the ledge.

Location

This is the first route of the Godfather area as you're coming up the trail. Just to the right of the Godfather pinnacle is another clean chunk of rock with a prominent hanging arete with a slab on it's right side. The climb begins up geometric features that look like modern art, to a ledge and the business.

Protection

Bolts to chains

Photos

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