Type: Trad, 470 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Matt Skorina, Lani Chapko, Sam Bowers - November 2018
Page Views: 330 total · 61/month
Shared By: Matt Skorina on Nov 13, 2018
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

P1 - 90ft 5.5
Go up easy slabs to the right of watercourse past a dead tree to big flat ledge.

P2 - 70ft 5.8
Straight up large flakes into slightly broken rock, past small bulge into right leaning seam. Up this seam until it is possible to cut slightly left onto the face. Build an anchor at base of splitter corner.

P3 - 70ft 5.10c
Up the obvious corner, past a tricky layback section then up to the apex of the corner. Fire through through the crux moves on smearing feet and up to a small ledge. Really cool pitch!

P4 - 110ft 5.9
Continue up the corner through a thrutchy chimney section and into a really sweet handcrack and bulge. Belay on a small ridge below a beautiful chocolate corner.

P5 - 130ft 5.10b PG13
Get into the corner and pull over the bulge. It is possible to get an rp (HB #4 or similar) in a blind placement high up in the corner before committing to the crux moves. I was just able to reach (6ft with +2" ape index) and had practiced the moves before on top rope. A fall from this point would land you hard on the slab below. For the benefit of future parties we left a nut (#5 BD slightly higher than the rp placement) with a long sling that can be clipped before pulling the bulge. Don't clip it if you don't want to.

After the bulge go slightly down and right and climb featured slab with no gear to the right of the corner for 15ft until a jug and good gear. Then up the amazing corner on solid varnished rock! At the top of the corner move left 15ft and climb 30ft of 5.6 hand crack on poor rock to the summit.

Location

On the left side of the Office Wall. Route follows a right leaning corner for the top 3 pitches. Starts in a water runoff with a dead and downed tree 30ft up.

Protection

Double .2 - #3, single #4, nuts, rps. There are no fixed anchors.

Descent

Top out the formation and walk / scramble off the backside towards the base of the Brownstone wall. There is a cairned path. About 20min to the base of Armatron. Definitely don't leave gear at the base.

Photos

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