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Feat of Clay

5.9+, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 10 votes
FA: Clay Nichols, '94
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > Orange Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Starts near large tree at left side of Orange Wall.  Cut right below large roof.  Go around right side of roof. Then go move back left to anchor.

Location

Starts near large tree at left side of Orange Wall.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The start of the route, as seen from the large tree.
[Hide Photo] The start of the route, as seen from the large tree.
Looking up at the route from the start. You'll go right at the roof.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the route from the start. You'll go right at the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] When I climbed this recently, I noticed there are two possible options to go "right at the roof." One is the nearest slot with a protectable finger crack while the other is further right. You cut back left in both cases to reach the anchor. Which one is correct? Aug 1, 2024
Paul L
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this today, and took the right side exit. Essentially after the initial moves up and a bit left, I kept going right through some jugs and jams, stepping over the dihedral below, finding some more jugs and jams and pulling up onto the slab, then moving left to the anchors. I looked at the moves left into the finger crack and lieback to pull the second roof, but that did not seem like 5.9+ moves. I will likely try this another time, though. Looks exciting.

I found the route to be very fun and mostly solid. There is definitely some choss to be found, but it's pretty obvious. There is ample good gear, with just a bit of spicy run-out through the middle, but on big holds and immediately into almost no-hands rest territory for the next gear. Definitely throwing this route on the warm-up circuit for this portion of the wall.

Anchor hangers are very rusty, and there are no hooks, just widely spaced quicklinks. Easy enough to thread and lower, but you'll get some twists.

Do be warned that there is a huge amount of poison oak on the ground near the big tree where you stage for the route, including a huge vine running up the tree, and some on the ledge near the anchors. Jan 23, 2025