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Kentucky's Finest
5.11b PG13,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 6
votes
FA: unknown
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Brownstone Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a really fun outing featuring intricate face climbing, thin cracks and challenging gear placements. There is still some fragile rock on this climb, helmets are recommended.
We scrambled up the initial ramp of Nightcrawler to a ledge about 30 or 40 feet off the ground where we dropped our packs and set up to start climbing.
P1: Leave the ledge and continue up the left leaning ramp that marks the beginning of Nightcrawler. Climb up the ramp for about 40 or 50 feet until you see a bolt about 8-10 feet out to the right. Face climbing past another bolt leads to a thin crack system with tricky gear. Another bolt appears with some face climbing eventually leading to an anchor at a foot rail. (160ft)
P2: Climb up the beautifully varnished face to a bolt. It is a bit committing to get to this first bolt, and is a couple of body lengths off the belay on some slightly fragile holds. From here the next bolt is even more committing to get to, but now you are on some of the best varnished rock on the route. Thin face climbing eventually leads to a thin crack with creative gear placements. This crack peters out at a ledge where the climb steps left a few feet. Leave the ledge and climb up the unprotected face to an anchor that is hidden away in the back of a corner. I had to get a party on Nightcrawler to held me figure out where I was heading because this anchor is difficult to see. (160ft)
P3: The outrageously beautiful corner! While this pitch is short compared to the climbing that precedes it, It makes up for it in quality. Jam, layback and stem your way up the 60ft to an anchor that hides out on the face to the right of the corner. This anchor can be seen from the belay below. (80ft)
From the top of pitch 3 the climb can be linked into Hourglass Diversion for that route's final 2 pitches. If choosing this option refer to H.D.'s descent information. Otherwise rappel from here, one rope will get you down the 3rd pitch and then double rope rappel to the ground. The guidebook mentions a 70m would work for rappelling, but I am not convinced of that. These pitches seemed much longer than suggested there.
Location
Shares the start with Nightcrawler and eventually heads straight up the face to the right.
Protection
Single rack to 2 camalot with extra small pieces should cover it.
I used 2 #1 camalots on one pitch, but other options exist. Lots of draws.
[Hide Photo] If following P1 was that much fun, imagine how psyched he was while leading P2
[Hide Photo] Matt on the amazing P3 corner of Kentucky's Finest.
[Hide Photo] iPhone shot of a badass local on the top of p1 (3-9-23), taken from Nightcrawler p2 belay
[Hide Photo] The man, the myth, the legend following up the first pitch
Las Vegas, NV