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> Bottes Surbottes
Gueule d'Amour
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 7
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Routes in Bottes Surbottes
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Bottes Surbottes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gueule d'Amour S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,197 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Hyland Markle on Nov 9, 2018 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley |
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Description
The infamous Gueule d'Amour. A MUST do in the Verdon!! This is a one-of-a-kind, spelunking adventure with incredible chimney and overhung climbing. Headlamp mandatory!!!
P1) Scramble up the easy gulley, heading to the base of the mega crack/chimney. 5.3
P2) Put on your headlamp and hike back into the very back of the cave. When you reach the back, stem up the walls and head through the hole in the roof to gain a nice ledge. From here, head toward the light straight outward. It can be nice to clip the first bolt of the next pitch and just belay normally. You really don't need any draws for this pitch because there is no pro. 5.4
P3) Charge up the incredible chimney feature, clipping bolts. You are heading aaallllll the way up into the darkness and traversing out to a bolt anchor at the very top. 5.10a/b
P4) Get your game face on and pound through some jugs, stemming your way at the mega steep terrain and topping out. You or the follower can A0 this section if necessary and it decreases the grade to 5.10d. This felt pretty tough for 6c to me. 5.11b/c.
P1) Scramble up the easy gulley, heading to the base of the mega crack/chimney. 5.3
P2) Put on your headlamp and hike back into the very back of the cave. When you reach the back, stem up the walls and head through the hole in the roof to gain a nice ledge. From here, head toward the light straight outward. It can be nice to clip the first bolt of the next pitch and just belay normally. You really don't need any draws for this pitch because there is no pro. 5.4
P3) Charge up the incredible chimney feature, clipping bolts. You are heading aaallllll the way up into the darkness and traversing out to a bolt anchor at the very top. 5.10a/b
P4) Get your game face on and pound through some jugs, stemming your way at the mega steep terrain and topping out. You or the follower can A0 this section if necessary and it decreases the grade to 5.10d. This felt pretty tough for 6c to me. 5.11b/c.
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