PRINT: Climb Baggins, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Baggins

V11, Boulder,

Avg: 3.5 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Boulders - Litt… > Cabbage Patch > Baggins Boulder

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Start on rail under tiered roof. Do some hard moves to the jug and then topout through the crack. V12 if you continue to traverse out left ending on Shrimps.

Location

up the hill from Tom's Problem

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fall 2019

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Z D
Salt Lake City

V11

This is a Mike Beck FA; he spent ages clearing over 80 buckets of dirt out from the cave for it to be climbable. Give him a thanks next time you see him out in the canyon!

Starting far right and ending far left with the big scary move over the rock slab is V10. Starting on that same start and ending further right, near the chockstone is a 7 or 8. The start described here starts on two obvious holds just right of another rock and exits the further right exit. As Eric said, continuing along the traverse is said to be 12. edit: the 7/8 starts sitting, NOT on the jug. starting from the jug and exiting early is probably v6.

There is a huge rat like fella that lives in this cave and likes to take your snacks if you leave them out during a night session. Smaller mice were around as well. Just a heads up! Nov 18, 2018

Dave H

Anyone have better directions for this or a photo? Spent a decent amount or time looking around and couldn't find anything that matched the description. Jun 9, 2019

Past User

If I remember correctly it's in the alcove/cave immediately above Tom's Problem- you access by scrambling up the slab/corner just left of Toms Jun 10, 2019

elan s
Denver, CO

Dave, if you want better directions, go to the boulder called Baggins right, and there are much better directions for how to get to this cave via a small trail past double dyno Apr 17, 2021