Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, Carlos Carro-Dupla, Mike Hopkins, Johannes Reisert, Robert 'Bud' Roper, June, 2005
Page Views: 519 total · 17/month
Shared By: Burton Rosenberger on Nov 8, 2018
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is closed to public use during February 15 - July 31 to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Details

Description

This is best done in three pitches. Relax and enjoy the views from comfortable belay ledges! PITCH 1 (~90'): Start on the mostly buried boulder, A few feet uphill from a cluster of three small trees, approximately 25' left of the start for When The Buffalo Roam. Boulder up to a stance to get gear in, then boulder up to a ledge with a tree to the right (and other foliage). You can keep the climbing to 5.6 through this initial section by using the hidden flake off to the left. Step over to the tree where a block sticks out from the roof at waist level. Step up onto the block and head up, trending slightly right as you go. Climb up just left of the tree to cleaner rock. The last section (5.7) goes through a shallow corner with a block or two sticking out of it. Look for the key hidden hand hold to get up to the belay alcove. PITCH 2 (~60'): Climb up and right, aiming for a horizontal break about 10' below the roof above, and make an airy traverse around the corner. Step up to a ledge below a small roof. Balance up (5.8-; no gear after the ledge) 12-15' to the spacious belay platform with a moderate sized pine tree. Alternatively, to avoid the 5.8 no-gear crux, traverse right about 5' to a small right to a fractured right-facing corner and climb up that (still no gear, but it's also no harder than 5.7, and is about 5' shorter) to the belay ledge. PITCH 3 (~40'): Climb the short, featured and fractured wall above, pulling through the low roof (5.6) 15' above the belay and drifting up right to any exit you desire (through the notch, through the high roof, step left). The climbing is no harder than 5.6, depending on your exit. The first pitch was established over three different visits while avoiding vultures on the first pitch of Where The Buffalo Roam; pitches 2 & 3 of this route went in on the third visit. -Indy's Online Guide

Location

Look for a large rock mid trail you have to scramble over and a triple trunk tree. Start on the rock just left of the tree. (see pictures)

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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