Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Varlotta and Patrick Broderick, April 2004
Page Views: 450 total · 10/month
Shared By: Burton Rosenberger on Nov 8, 2018
Admins: Frances Fierst, David Carrier

You & This Route

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Access Issue: This area is closed to public use, each year, during February 15 - July 31 to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Details


A two-pitch route. PITCH 1: Use the same start as A Winter's Tale until you reach the 30' vertical section of headwall directly below the clean, white roof. At this point, rather than moving up and left on a diagonal to bypass the roof on the left, move up and right on a diagonal to enter the chimney/flake system up to the right. Creative movement and problem solving in the chimney (5.8) are required to continue. Traverse right after this, out to and up and around the TV-sized chockstone that can be seen from the ground. Belay from the ledge just above and right of the chockstone to minimize rope drag. (5.8, 130') PITCH 2: A great second pitch for its grade. Climb directly up from the belay for 15' until it is possible to make a short traverse to the right. After the traverse, finish by climbing a direct line to the top of the cliff. (5.6, 50') - Indy's Online Guide


See attached picture for start location (shared start with a winters tail).
Also look straight up and slightly right from start to see a spot of freshly broken rock about 1/3 from the top .... this was the mini-gendarme location previously described


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