Dancing Spanish Through the Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Mike Varlotta and Patrick Broderick, April 2004 |
Page Views: | 135 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Burton Rosenberger on Nov 8, 2018 |
Admins: | Frances Fierst |
- The closure area includes all cliffs and trails beyond these signs.
- Peregrine Falcons are a state and federally protected bird.
- Human disturbance can cause nest abandonment and the loss of eggs and chicks.
- Viewing the Peregrines is possible from along the Great Allegheny Passage Trail as it passes through The Cumberland Narrows.
See this photo for details:
Description
A two-pitch route. PITCH 1: Use the same start as A Winter's Tale until you reach the 30' vertical section of headwall directly below the clean, white roof. At this point, rather than moving up and left on a diagonal to bypass the roof on the left, move up and right on a diagonal to enter the chimney/flake system up to the right. Creative movement and problem solving in the chimney (5.8) are required to continue. Traverse right after this, out to and up and around the TV-sized chockstone that can be seen from the ground. Belay from the ledge just above and right of the chockstone to minimize rope drag. (5.8, 130') PITCH 2: A great second pitch for its grade. Climb directly up from the belay for 15' until it is possible to make a short traverse to the right. After the traverse, finish by climbing a direct line to the top of the cliff. (5.6, 50') - Indy's Online Guide
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