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Midnight Oil
5.11a R,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Crawford, Randy Marsh - 1983
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (10) Pine Creek…
> Magic Mountain
> N Face
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a fine pitch that doesn't see much traffic - but it should. It's a bit dirty, and the cruxes are brief, but the climbing is fun from top to bottom.
Begin in the juggy corner just left of Bro's. Climb this corner to a ledge, clip a Z-pin (or not... other, better gear exists nearby) and execute a cruxy reach and mantle. Continue mantling up ledges (run out) to regain the corner which is followed to a bolt. One more move here leads to more jugs up the steep corner and an anchor on the right.
Protection
1x small to #4 Camalot, Wires. 2x ropes needed to get down.