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Routes in Reptilian Wall
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Anaconda T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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April O'neil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cobra T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don Iguana T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gecko T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Half snake, half chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No More Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Seventh Serpent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shed Your Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Splinter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stealth Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Triceratops Middle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Triceratops Right T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Vertical flu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wiggle 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.54912, -109.69864 |
| FA: | Aaron Rotchadl, Margaret Marie Nielsen, Nov 2018 |
| Page Views: | 786 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Rotchadl on Nov 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
A fun but sort of spooky route. The most important reason I'm posting this is to alert others of the danger of climbing in the crack on the left(that doesn't reach the ground). On the FA I switched into this crack and placed a #3 camalot a few feet above the anchors that I ended up installing and climbed a body length above it only to feel the entire flake flex about 1/2". I got scared so I scuttled back down to my piece, took and placed the anchors. The climb is never run out but I wouldn't recommend protecting or jamming too hard in the crack on the left(or using it at all!).
Photos
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