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Exile

5.10b, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Chad Suchoski, Tyler Young (2018)
California > Northeast Calif… > Lost Sierra > Mill > Right of Alcove

Description

Start by climbing up a vertical seam which switches from right facing to left facing about 30ft up. Climb this vertical seam past a short broken section to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge to the right until you reach the edge of a large gully. Instead of heading into the gully, climb up a short face section to a 3" crack in a bulge. After the bulge, follow a splitter .75" to 1" crack which heads up a very exposed steep ramp to the anchors. 

Location

About 15 feet right of Megalodon starting in an obvious vertical crack system.  

Protection

Cams, .3" to 3". Nuts, 1 set.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the F.A. of Exile
[Hide Photo] On the F.A. of Exile
Tyler Young on Exile
[Hide Photo] Tyler Young on Exile
Tyler Young following the F.A. of Exile.
[Hide Photo] Tyler Young following the F.A. of Exile.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Herle
Reno, NV
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] We did it as two pitches: pitch one going up and then traversing the big ledge to the gully, and pitch 2 going left up the slanting hand crack. Pitch one was fun but a little chossy, pitch two was absolutely stellar. Mar 8, 2020