Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: NB
Page Views: 162 total · 14/month
Shared By: nbrown on Nov 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a more direct and consistent-for-the-grade variation finish to "Rat Crack Direct" (RCD) that climbs the thin face directly above (5.10d) rather than the easy crack to the left.

Climb "Rat Crack Direct" past bolt 2, and move straight up. There is a bomber hand-size cam in the horizontal above bolt 3 of RCD and at the base of the small ledge where the variation diverges; it protects you better and reduces rope drag. If you clip bolt 3 (of RCD), be sure to sling it long or back clean it!

A very thin boulder problem gets you started, followed by thin slabbin' to a shallow, right-facing flake. Climb the tricky flake to the belay ledge. 3 bolts protect this face.

Location

Start on Rat Crack Direct -- see the picture topo.

Protection

Approximately the same as for Rat Crack Direct. There are 3 bolts on this variation.

Photos

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