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Crimps in a Coat

V2-, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Whipple Hill Co… > Whipple Boulder

Description

This route starts to the left of Jugs in a Jacket and follows an almost direct topout to a slopey face.

Sit start left and below the shelf at the start of Jugs... with your hands matched on a sloper with a crimpy crease. Find a couple of well-positioned foot chips, and move up towards and intermediate crimp/pinch, or make a big move to the overhead slopey shelf with a good crack in it. Reposition your feet on the shelf, and move left using a sharp, black crimp and a small, horny pinch. Top out on a sloping face using some small crimps or pockets.

Location

It is on the South face of Whipple Boulder and is located left of Jugs in a Jacket.

Protection

A pad or two, and a spotter helps.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Still a fun route without the hold Addy mentioned in the comments. I don't know what it was like before, but I would probably still rate it V1-2 or V2-. This is how I started the route, matching both hands on the sloper. Fun few moves!
[Hide Photo] Still a fun route without the hold Addy mentioned in the comments. I don't know what it was like before, but I would probably still rate it V1-2 or V2-. This is how I started the route, matching bo…
This shows Crimps in a Coat to the left of Jugs in a Jacket.
[Hide Photo] This shows Crimps in a Coat to the left of Jugs in a Jacket.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Addy G
[Hide Comment] I'm sorry to say I believe I ripped off the bottom left start hold on this climb. Likely made this a good bit harder, haven't made my way back to take a second crack at it. Hopefully less literally this time. May 8, 2020