Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches
FA: Aid FA: 1997 Mark Ronca & Jeff Weiss. FFA: 2006 Joey Vulpis & Chrissy Licata
Page Views: 676 total · 10/month
Shared By: Northeast Mountain Guiding on Oct 31, 2018
Admins: SMarsh

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Description Suggest change

Mark Ronca and Jeff Weiss probably used pitons Mark made in his Dad’s garage forge for this first ascent. Mark said he made a lot of pitons in his Dad’s garage back then and regularly used them. This route starts just to the left of ‘Corkscrew’.

Pitch 1: Climb the face past the small overhang and then climb left toward the large overhang. You can belay just below the left-facing arete off the side of the overhang.
Pitch 2: Traverse out of the corner (either aid or free) to the fine edge and pull up to another belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Exit left toward a flake in the middle of a roof above. Climb the flake to the edge and onto an upper flake past several old pitons and a bolt. These flakes are always loose so be cautious. Continue climbing up past the small overhanging systems to the top to the cliff. This is one of my favorite routes on this wall.

Protection Suggest change

Standard gap rack: Small to medium cams, 2 large cams, set of stoppers, few small tri-cams.

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