Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Eric Bluemn, Ro DJ 10/24/2018
Page Views: 199 total · 13/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on Oct 30, 2018
Admins: Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is located at the far right side of the south face. Start at the right side of a series of ledges, just right of a large left-right crack that splits the wall.

p1 15m 4a: Scramble right to left on the first ledge to reach the nice corner crack. Follow this to the first ledge and make an anchor above the prickly pear

p2 25m 5a: Climb up and right to access the rightwards traverse under the Tennessee-shaped block. Move right through the traverse (crux) and turn the corner to find a belay at a good stance.

p3 50m 4b: Climb broken rock up towards the roofs. Move first left under the roofs, then climb over the roof and traverse right until you find trustworthy rock (basically back above the belay). From here move straight up until you can access a lower-angle gully system. Continue up the gully unit you find good rock for a belay. **

**(This pitch has questionable rock on it, and there may be a better p3 by continuing to traverse out and left)

p4 15m (-): Continue up the gully until you reach the broad grassy ledge at the top of the Cioch.

Location

Park at the intersection for Aguerd Cioch. Continue west down the road to access the trail that runs along the south face of the buttress. At the right side (right of the route "Captain Hornblower") there is a left-to-right vertical fault that splits the face The route Starts to the right of this up a series of ledges.

Descent: Follow cairns off the top fo the formation east back to the road.

Protection

Standard antiatlas rack with some extra small cams. Also found the smallest ball nut helpful to protect the follower during the crux traverse.

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