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Cotton Mouth Cruise

5.9 PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
FA: Matt Schutz, May 2009
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Big Sleep Area > Crocodile Dome

Description

This is a great face pitch on superb rock.  The guidebook calls it bolts only, but at the very top there is a 30 ft run to the anchor.  However, a very good cam (1"-1.25") can be placed to cut that distance in half.  There is also a good horn to be slung slightly right of this gear placement that eases the thought of a long fall.

Location

Two routes right of the very obvious corner that is Willy Nilly.  Don't take the first unless you are seeking the 10b R/X called Flying Hammerheads.

Protection

6 draws for the bolts, a cam for the upper runout (1"-1.25"), sling for the horn up high, and an optional large (3 or 4 ") cam for the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cruising on cottonmouth -Photo by Mike A.
[Hide Photo] Cruising on cottonmouth -Photo by Mike A.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew R
Fresno
[Hide Comment] Thought a .75 camalot fit better than the 1" in the description. I'd take a couple if you're heading up this. Great climb! May 3, 2020