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Animal Magnetism

5.12c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 19 votes
FA: FA, Bolted and Prepped by Alan Collins
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (7) The Monument > Hank Collins Memorial…
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Description

One of the steeper routes at Smith begins with the same start as Sweet as Hank,  climbing up the near vertical slab to the base of the overhang. Go clip the last bolt on the slab on the right and begin up good holds on the steep overhang. This short overhang serves a quick pump and one of the most heartbreaking finishes in the park. You can almost smell the steel of the chains at the final crux!

Protection

Fixed anchors with steel carabiners. Fixed draws most of the time

Location

Starts of the most left route on the wall, starting up high off the ramp. At the top of the slab, follow the right bolt line.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin with 2 bolts clipped on the steep section and a couple more to go.
[Hide Photo] Kevin with 2 bolts clipped on the steep section and a couple more to go.
Running for the chains
[Hide Photo] Running for the chains
Big guy drop knee beta. Still hiking.
[Hide Photo] Big guy drop knee beta. Still hiking.
Kevin heading out the roof
[Hide Photo] Kevin heading out the roof
The final mantle before the chains!
[Hide Photo] The final mantle before the chains!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Instant classic. Another great addition to this wall! Killer work Al!

Edit: Yeah forget the dynos... Oct 30, 2018
Jesse Firestone
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but probably not destined to be as classic as Sweet as Hank. Unique sequence transitioning from the slab to the overhang. No dynos needed, though. Dec 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Super fun movement! The climbing goes from some technical climbing into big moves on good holds on the overhang. Jan 2, 2019
Hunter Murray
Terrebonne, OR
 
[Hide Comment] This is a worthy climb. A fun slab brings you to a gorgeous overhang with a couple huge moves and an exciting finish. The Hank Wall is where its at! Jun 25, 2019
Connor McCafferty
Redmond
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Such a fun route, I wish that the steep rock would go on and on... Sep 28, 2021