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Captive To Ego

V6, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Dogarf-Isnewt (5/19/18)
New Hampshire > WM: Franconia N… > Franconia Notch… > Torcher

Description

Captive To Ego is the torchers opposite temperamental sister, techy tip jams & underclings that begin from a Joshua Tree esque flare out of a little roof. Sit start inside a small cave on rails (cramped), pull around the lip (crux) then follow the splitter tips crack out right using two glorious edges for feet until you can hit the jug flake. From there make a few last moves to mantle onto the slab then follow it for 15ft to the trees. The rating is subjective and open to movement based on consensus.

Location

When you break right for the torcher at the boulder with the short left leaning finger crack, look up and left for the tall splitter hand crack. To get to Ego Slave follow a deer trail 150ft up and around the hand crack

Protection

two pads and a spotter

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tips for days, note the two marked edges for feet.
[Hide Photo] Tips for days, note the two marked edges for feet.
Starting rails
[Hide Photo] Starting rails
View of the problem coming up the trail.
[Hide Photo] View of the problem coming up the trail.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The second half of this problem is currently completely hidden by growth. The face containing the crack is absolutely covered in peeling moss. I couldn't even see the crack except that I knew it was supposed to be there. The stuff was really easy to pull off but would take a considerable about of cleaning to expose the full problem. Is this a seasonal thing? Does this stuff come off naturally? Oct 13, 2019
Dogarf
  V6
[Hide Comment] I have not been up to this problem in a month or two but I cannot imagine you were at the right boulder. Oct 14, 2019
[Hide Comment] Haha okay good to know, thanks. I found something that looked surprisingly similar but something did feel off about it. Oct 16, 2019
Dogarf
  V6
[Hide Comment] Although this rock is bomber granite, it is extremely large grained. A few large crystals have broken off as well as an edge in the undercling that was an essential part of my beta. I would now say that the stand start from the left end of the crack is V5+ish and the sit start is now significantly harder. Jun 28, 2020