PRINT: Rock Climb Wildlings, South Platte

Wildlings

5.6, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 29 votes
FA: Alex A., Julie Doyle
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Pooka > 1. King's Landing

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Climb the dihedral with a crack to a small overhang to a face with one bolt.

Protection

A trad rack to a #3 cam, one bolt, and 2 top bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Near the top at the lone bolt.

I'm on the neighboring sport route, but the obvious crack to the left is Wildlings. A very fun lead (or TR if you didn't bring pro).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Clem

The flake under which lead pro will be placed sounded hollow most of the way up...a substantial flake, but it sounded more hollow than I liked. One of the bolts (right side) on the top anchor was loose and just spun around when I tried to tighten it. The left bolt seemed bomber The right bolt probably helps some but is not in great condition for a TR anchor...obviously this is a trad lead route, so hopefully fewer people will be utilizing it until the anchor can be addressed. Jun 21, 2021

Brian Reyman
Fort Collins, CO

The right hanger is still spinning a bit, but the bolt seems solid.... Short but still enjoyable. A nice 5.6 practice run, especially when paired up back to back with Valyrian Steel. Oct 19, 2023