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Central Squeeze
5.8+,
TR, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: unknown
New Jersey
> a. NorthWest
> Cranberry Hollow
> t. Clifford
Access Issue: Not specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, or perhaps outside State Park land.
Details
This area has not been specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, and perhaps is completely of partly outside the Park, instead on State-owned land managed by the NJ Dept of Environmental Protection. Also there might be a concern of climbers parking disruptively outside the Route 206 Cranberry Lake commuter parking lot on busy days.
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
Description
Some interesting moves.
Start about 6 ft left of the bottom of obvious central gully,
Straight up to the perched triangular block (without using smaller lower block jammed in the gully about 8 ft up. Around left side of both perched blocks. Finish over upturned nose which is left from below 6-inch-thick tree at top of cliff.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - >
See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Location
Protection
[Hide Photo] Clifford Center + Right F. (project) K. Central Face . vK. variation L. Central Squeeze M. Full Body Workout R. Right High Corner T Right Low Corner . vT. variation V. Far Right Face