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Lithium (Evan's Offwidth)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1+
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Sewemup Mesa
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Angel Arete AKA Charlie's Angel S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Angel of Harlem T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coyote Ugly, et al. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dairygold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Drunken Angel T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Green Party, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jagged Edge, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lithium (Evan's Offwidth) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ |
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Love Bug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Major Tom Milne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Me and My Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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My Pet Goat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quarter of a Century T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Roof Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stepping Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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This Ain't Living T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 7 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Untitled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Evan Deis, David Hoven, Spencer Cone, Sam Andree |
| Page Views: | 982 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Cone on Oct 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
P1 is phenomenal. The climbing here is of the highest quality. Both of the cruxes are short and well-protected (as long as you don't run out of #6s). Do this pitch! A three bolt anchor makes it easy to set this up as a toprope.
If you choose to sally onward, P2 follows an aid seam up a thin dihedral to the base of the roof. Bring small stoppers and tiny cams for the crux. A two bolt anchor lies below the roof. C1+
P3 traverses under the roof on a sandy crack with mega exposure! Although the rock quality deteriorates slightly, the roof is easily aided at C1. Do not turn the corner after the roof as there is a death block above. Instead, keep following the horizontal crack as it widens to 5.10 hands and ends at a stance where a gear anchor can be erected. It is conceivable that a stronger fellow than I could free this entire pitch at 5.11 or 5.12.
P4 is a scramble to the summit.
To descend, make a short rap off a slung tree to another, larger ledge. On the South side of this ledge you can find the anchors and rappel line for Dairygold.
If you choose to sally onward, P2 follows an aid seam up a thin dihedral to the base of the roof. Bring small stoppers and tiny cams for the crux. A two bolt anchor lies below the roof. C1+
P3 traverses under the roof on a sandy crack with mega exposure! Although the rock quality deteriorates slightly, the roof is easily aided at C1. Do not turn the corner after the roof as there is a death block above. Instead, keep following the horizontal crack as it widens to 5.10 hands and ends at a stance where a gear anchor can be erected. It is conceivable that a stronger fellow than I could free this entire pitch at 5.11 or 5.12.
P4 is a scramble to the summit.
To descend, make a short rap off a slung tree to another, larger ledge. On the South side of this ledge you can find the anchors and rappel line for Dairygold.
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