Lithium (Evan's Offwidth)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1+
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.49259, -108.88521 |
| FA: | Evan Deis, David Hoven, Spencer Cone, Sam Andree |
| Page Views: | 1,013 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Cone on Oct 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1 is phenomenal. The climbing here is of the highest quality. Both of the cruxes are short and well-protected (as long as you don't run out of #6s). Do this pitch! A three bolt anchor makes it easy to set this up as a toprope.
If you choose to sally onward, P2 follows an aid seam up a thin dihedral to the base of the roof. Bring small stoppers and tiny cams for the crux. A two bolt anchor lies below the roof. C1+
P3 traverses under the roof on a sandy crack with mega exposure! Although the rock quality deteriorates slightly, the roof is easily aided at C1. Do not turn the corner after the roof as there is a death block above. Instead, keep following the horizontal crack as it widens to 5.10 hands and ends at a stance where a gear anchor can be erected. It is conceivable that a stronger fellow than I could free this entire pitch at 5.11 or 5.12.
P4 is a scramble to the summit.
To descend, make a short rap off a slung tree to another, larger ledge. On the South side of this ledge you can find the anchors and rappel line for Dairygold.



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