Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Evan Deis, David Hoven, Spencer Cone, Sam Andree
Page Views: 209 total · 21/month
Shared By: Spencer Todd Cone on Oct 22, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1 is phenomenal. The climbing here is of the highest quality. Both of the cruxes are short and well-protected (as long as you don't run out of #6s). Do this pitch! A three bolt anchor makes it easy to set this up as a toprope.

If you choose to sally onward, P2 follows an aid seam up a thin dihedral to the base of the roof. Bring small stoppers and tiny cams for the crux. A two bolt anchor lies below the roof. C1+

P3 traverses under the roof on a sandy crack with mega exposure! Although the rock quality deteriorates slightly, the roof is easily aided at C1. Do not turn the corner after the roof as there is a death block above. Instead, keep following the horizontal crack as it widens to 5.10 hands and ends at a stance where a gear anchor can be erected. It is conceivable that a stronger fellow than I could free this entire pitch at 5.11 or 5.12.

P4 is a scramble to the summit.

To descend, make a short rap off a slung tree to another, larger ledge. On the South side of this ledge you can find the anchors and rappel line for Dairygold. 

Location

Head up the trail from CO 141. Lithium begins with the spectacular offwidth to the left of the other routes here.

Protection

Small stoppers, doubles from #0.2 to 5, and three #6s for P1. There are bolted anchors at the top of P1 and P2.

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