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Half-Baked Alaska

5.12a, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: A. Miller
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Ice Cream Parlor > Main Sector

Description

This is an unusual route that pieces together a few features to make a very enjoyable and interesting climb. It has a well-protected and bolted crux, but the rest of the climb is gear, sometimes fiddly.

Start in a north-facing cave and stem/chimney up fun moderate movement through small ledges and a nice splitter crack to reach the first of two bolts. Consider accessing another smaller corner system to the right as you move through the bolted crux section. Commit to punching for the good rail and mantle up to last small ledge at base of upper corner. Fiddle in your 00 cam or stopper and make the final easy moves to the anchor.

Location

Right end of the crag, just left of Nonfat and Chocolate Factory. Start in a small cave formed by the large tower leaning against the wall. 

Protection

Single rack from .3 to #2 with one purple C3 (grey or purple metolius?) or wires and one #5 or #6 cam for the bottom chimney. Draws for the two bolts and maybe for the first two pieces leaving the cave.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Half-Baked Alaska. We pulled a huge block off (accidentally) from location shown by arrow.
[Hide Photo] Half-Baked Alaska. We pulled a huge block off (accidentally) from location shown by arrow.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benjamin Warren
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Pulled a torso sized block off the route on accident. Dyno-ed out to the small stance in the corner system on the right (after the bolts)...the stance is what came off. Its a larger ledge now, but you're much lower to start. Not sure if this changes the grade. This occurred on Sept 20, 2020. Oct 4, 2020