5.12a/b,
Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: By Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo (1951)
International
> Europe
> France
> 04 Northern Alps
> Chamonix Mont B…
> Midi - Tacul
> Grand Capucin
The route is described from the « Cave « located 120m above the bottom of the Grand CapucinPitch1 (40m 5.10b) : Above R0, get over a short and athletic crack. Then traverse left to find another cracked corner, fingers. At the height of R1, traverse horizontally towards left to get to the anchor. A bit exposed.
Pitch2 (30m 5.10b) : To the right take the chimney crack, then the cracked corner which follows. R2 is on the left.
Pitch3 (30m 5.10d) : From R2, take the crack to the right, and then the beautiful corner which follows. Some pitons are in place. Come out left in the middle of the slab, athletic. R3 is some meters above, in the slab.
Pitch4 (15m 5.10d) : Traverse right under the large roof, through the slab, easy. Then ascent vertically until the back of the roof and continue right to reach R4, at the first Bonatti bivouac. Last athletic mantle move.
Pitch5 (40m 5.10b) : From the bivouac, ascend a crack system upwards left, some pitons. Then continue upwards right, towards the large corner, unstable flakes. In the corner, overcome a short more vertical section to reach R5.
Pitch6 (30m 5.11a) : From R5, traverse right and take the thin horizontal crack. C3 from 0. Marvelous. Continue right through the easy chimney which leads to a beautiful plateau, at the foot of the 40m wall. R6 is at the end of the plateau.
Pitch7 (40m 5.12a/b) : Grade suggested by mountaineers who redpointed the pitch. Sustained 40m wall, many not always trustworthy pitons. Go right of the first roof above the anchor. The crux is a 10 or so meters above to reach a cracked corner to the right. The exit cracks are easier. R7 is just under the plateaus of the second Bonatti bivouac.
Pitch8 (30m 5.9) : Traverse the plateaus of the second bivouac upwards left. Overcome a short cracked wall and reach a platform. Follow it left until its end to find R8.
Pitch9 (30m 5.10c) : Climb a crack above the anchor, aerial. R9 is just under a steeper section.
Pitch10 (20m 5.11b) : Overcome this athletic section and after a few meters go right. R10 is just underneath.
Pitch11 (20m 5.11d) : Follow the crack with short, very athletic sections. R11 is under a small roof, towards the right.
Pitch12 (35m 5.11c) : Climb up to the roof and overcome it left, athletic, technical. Follow with a cracked corner that leads to a beautiful cracked slab. R12 on the left.
Pitch13 (40m 5.11a) : Overcome right a short vertical athletic section then upwards right, follow with sections of easier slabs and cracks. R13 is at the gap between the N and E face.
Pitch14 (30m 5.9) : Move onto the North face, often snowy. Traverse horizontally, then ascend directly towards the large gap between the two summits of the Capucin. Loose-ish rock. R14 is at the gap, on the left. Watch out, it can be tempting to abseil from R14. Don’t do it. The line does not continue. Keep climbing.
Pitch15 (30m 5.9) : From the gap, first take the East face, reach the summit ridge and move onto the North face for the last meter which lead to the summit and the start of the “Echo des Alpages” rappel line . Be careful to stay in the line of rappels.
West Lebanon, NH
I noticed a bunch of the photos are also on camptocamp. Not sure who ripped off whom, but maybe that connection can explain what the original poster meant by this grade.
Camptocamp gives this a grade III engagement rating, but MP uses NCCS commitment grades, not engagement grades. Engagement grades describe "an estimate of the degree of danger in which the practitioner would be if a problem arose. The main criteria taken into account: distance from civilization (refuge, valley, etc.), possibilities of escape or descent, level of equipment, altitude." ( camptocamp.org/articles/106…). Meanwhile NCCS grades indicate the length of the route and time commitment,
alpinist.com/p/climbing_not…. Jul 23, 2021