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Far Left Gully then Slab
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in s. Ronca
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Break Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C0 |
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Break Right TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0 |
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East Edge TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Far Left Gully then Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Wide Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Slab Center Left TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Slab Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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SouthWest Ridge TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Edge TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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West Wall: Broken Rib TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wall: Left of 3 Trees TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Wall: Low Corner TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Wall: Smaller Notch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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WW Diagonal Crack TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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WW Farther Left of 3 Trees TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 470 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Oct 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | SMarsh |
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Access Issue: Not specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, or perhaps outside State Park land.
Details
This area has not been specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, and perhaps is completely of partly outside the Park, instead on State-owned land managed by the NJ Dept of Environmental Protection. Also there might be a concern of climbers parking disruptively outside the Route 206 Cranberry Lake commuter parking lot on busy days.
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
Description
Thoughtful slab moves higher up, after more positive holds.
Start on left side of 10-inch-thick tree which is right of the base of the arete which forms the left edge of main south face of this sector. Up a shallow gully. Next on slab up to a 3-ft-high step with three sections. Get up onto its right section, then up slab and between second + third trees from left edge and on to the top - (or perhaps to right of third tree and diagonal right to finish).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Start on left side of 10-inch-thick tree which is right of the base of the arete which forms the left edge of main south face of this sector. Up a shallow gully. Next on slab up to a 3-ft-high step with three sections. Get up onto its right section, then up slab and between second + third trees from left edge and on to the top - (or perhaps to right of third tree and diagonal right to finish).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Location
Just right of the base of the arete which forms the left edge of this sector.
- - > See on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Ronca.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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