Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: 1971
Page Views: 743 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jung Hoon Lee on Oct 18, 2018
Admins: Chan Kim

You & This Route

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This route was first climbed in 1971 up to the P3 roof by Yoo Kisu of Echo club. It was rebolted in 2010 by Pusan Climbers and was named 'PC Shangri-la'.

P1(A0) There doesn't seem to be a reasonable line to access the corner crack above, hence the bolt ladder.

P2(50m,5.10d) This pitch is an aesthetic corner crack, and really should be climbed continuously in one piece. There is an optional belay in the middle.

P3(20m,C2) From the P2 anchor, move along the fixed line to the right for the next pitch. P3 climbs the roof crack above, and has yet to see a free ascent.

P4(25m,5.10b) Climb the obvious crack that goes left.

P5(45m,5.11b) Follow the balancy crack and finish with a short bolted slab to reach a large ledge.

From P5, you can continue up Yoban2 (35m,5.10d) to reach the top. Or you can simply hike out right to the center gully rappel.


Double 0.1 Triple 0.2 to 0.4 Double 0.5 to 1 Single 2 to 3
10 quickdraws.
extra #3 and #4 if you wish to continue to Yoban2