Type: Trad, 10 pitches
GPS: 38.19349, 128.47449
FA: 1982
Page Views: 876 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jung Hoon Lee on Oct 16, 2018
Admins: Chan Kim

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Yoban is perhaps the most burly climb in Ulsan-bawi. It is a standing proof of the now forgotten chimney techniques back in 1980s.

P1(25m,5.10b) Climb the crack left of the large chimney which marks the start of Sasun-crack.

P2(15m,5.10a) A short slab will get you to the anchor on the chimney. It shares the same anchor as P1 of Sasun-crack.

P3(25m,5.10c) Follow the crack system that appears on the right side of the chimney.

P4(20m,5.11a) The hand jam becomes insecure as the route steepens.

P5(30m,5.10b C2) A 3m wide streak of water with lichens crosses the crack. You'll likely need to aid through this part. Otherwise, a solid 5.10 crack.

P6(30m,5.10a) The crack widens to a broken chimney. The anchor is at the base of a squeeze chimney above.

P7(30m,5.12a) This is the burly bit. The crack quickly widens from #5 to #6 then to #7. This pitch is protected by bolts placed in 2014.

P8(30m,5.11b) Another pitch of bolted off-width/ squeeze chimney, but not as steep.

P9(15m,5.10a) Climb past a huge chockstone that forms a comfortable chimney.

P10(30m,5.6) Climb up the large boulders to reach the bolted anchor at the top.

To bypass the burly squeeze chimneys of P7 and P8, try Yoban2

The descent is identical to Anda-miro.

Protection Suggest change

Singles from 0.3 to 0.5 Doubles from 0.75 to 4
1 each #5, #6 for P7, P8 (not needed if you opt for Yoban2)
10 quickdraws.

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