Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 4 from 1
FA: Lower part: by Bonatti/Gallieni 1960 The exit: by Piola/Strappazzon 1988
> Northern Alps
> Chamonix Mont B…
> Midi - Tacul
> Chandelle du Tacul
Pitch1 (20m 5.10a) :
From R0, ascend left in a clear cracked corner going up towards the left. Leave the corner by going right after about 10 meters and continue through a cracked slab leading upwards right. R1 is well to the right, close to the couloir. Pitch2 (35m 5.9) :
From R1 go to the left where you will find an almost horizontal platform. Follow it for about 15 meters, do not go too far left, but directly climb the cracked corner above. By going left avoid the bulge which is just under R2 (piton). R2 is at the foot of the obvious cracked corner, 2 bolts but no chain. Pitch3 (20m 5.10c) :
From R2 directly climb the cracked corner, athletic and sustained, until the exit. R3 is on a nice platform, to the right. Pitch4 (40m 5.9) :
From R3, climb the crack left of the anchor. Ascend left the cracked corner that goes up to a small overhang after about 20m. Bypass it to the right. Then continue slightly upwards left. R4 is on the left. Pitch5 (45m 5.10b) :
From R4 go 2 meters to the right to an obvious corner. Do not directly climb the very thin crack of the corner, but, a little to the right, spot a crack system that stripes the right face of the corner (2 pitons, 15m). Exit onto a platform, traverse a little to the right. Then follow the easy crack system for about 30 meters. R5 is to the left, at the foot of an impressive corner.
Start variant: From R4, overcome the crack vertical of the anchor, reach the platform and traverse right. Pitch6 (10m 5.8) :
From R5, traverse well left, horizontally, for about ten meters. R6 is just left of a thin crack that stripes the summit wall. Pitch7 (35m 5.10d) :
From R6, directly climb the cracked flake above. It is thin at the beginning and then becomes easier and a little wider for a few meters. After a little mantle, do not traverse left, but continue through the delicate thin crack that leads to R7. Pitch8 (40m 5.10a) :
From R7, reach the crack to the right and climb it upwards right. After 20m, get to a small ledge. Traverse left following a horizontal crack, continue through a large chimney corner that leads to the summit platform. R8 and the start of the rappels are to the left, at the SW end of the platform.
Abseil the route. A 60-meter rope allows you to go from R3 to R0 depending on the amount of snow on the ground.