Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lower part: by Bonatti/Gallieni 1960 The exit: by Piola/Strappazzon 1988
Page Views: 173 total · 14/month
Shared By: Eric Blanc on Oct 15, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Location

Approach: 1h from the Torino hut, 2h from Aiguille du Midi
The start is to be found on the left of the couloir that separates «Trident du Tacul» from the «Chandelle». If there is enough snow itis possible to climb the first pitch of «Ligne Blanche» from R0. Otherwise, ascend the couloir exposed to rockfalls up to R1.

Description

  • The «Chandelle du Tacul» is found left of «Trident du Tacul», slightly behind it. The «Bonatti Tabou» has become a classic. It is asmart combination of two beautiful routes; the easier lower pitches of the «Bonatti» and the end highlight with the exit of «Tabou», opened by Piola and Strappazzon. The result is a harmonious route that follows varied crack systems. The anchors are fitted, but the route requires a good knowledge of gear placements.
  • 600 ft of rock climbing 5.10d/ obligatory 5.10b
    Anchors are set up, new
    2 bolts and a chain at the anchor
    8-10 quickdraws, of which 3-4 composed of long slings
    50m rappels. 60m ropes advised
  • More information: http://chamgranit-topos.com/topos/englishtopobonattitabou.pdf
  • Translation from french by Aanoud Petermann

Protection

- Glacier gear
- 2 sets of camalots C4 up to n°2
- 1 C4 n°3
- 1 set of C3 from 0, or X4/ .1 .2 .3
- Doubling the small sizes C3 or X4 may be useful.
- 1 set of nuts, mainly small sizes.

Itinerary "Bonatti-Tabou"

Pitch1 (20m 5.10a) : From R0, ascend left in a clear cracked corner going up towards the left. Leave the corner by going right after about 10 meters and continue through a cracked slab leading upwards right. R1 is well to the right, close to the couloir.

Pitch2 (35m 5.9) : From R1 go to the left where you will find an almost horizontal platform. Follow it for about 15 meters, do not go too far left, but directly climb the cracked corner above. By going left avoid the bulge which is just under R2 (piton). R2 is at the foot of the obvious cracked corner, 2 bolts but no chain.

Pitch3 (20m 5.10c) : From R2 directly climb the cracked corner, athletic and sustained, until the exit. R3 is on a nice platform, to the right.

Pitch4 (40m 5.9) : From R3, climb the crack left of the anchor. Ascend left the cracked corner that goes up to a small overhang after about 20m. Bypass it to the right. Then continue slightly upwards left. R4 is on the left.

Pitch5 (45m 5.10b) : From R4 go 2 meters to the right to an obvious corner. Do not directly climb the very thin crack of the corner, but, a little to the right, spot a crack system that stripes the right face of the corner (2 pitons, 15m). Exit onto a platform, traverse a little to the right. Then follow the easy crack system for about 30 meters. R5 is to the left, at the foot of an impressive corner.
Start variant: From R4, overcome the crack vertical of the anchor, reach the platform and traverse right.

Pitch6 (10m 5.8) : From R5, traverse well left, horizontally, for about ten meters. R6 is just left of a thin crack that stripes the summit wall.              

Pitch7 (35m 5.10d) : From R6, directly climb the cracked flake above. It is thin at the beginning and then becomes easier and a little wider for a few meters. After a little mantle, do not traverse left, but continue through the delicate thin crack that leads to R7.

Pitch8 (40m 5.10a) : From R7, reach the crack to the right and climb it upwards right. After 20m, get to a small ledge. Traverse left following a horizontal crack, continue through a large chimney corner that leads to the summit platform. R8 and the start of the rappels are to the left, at the SW end of the platform.

Descent

Abseil the route. A 60-meter rope allows you to go from R3 to R0 depending on the amount of snow on the ground.

Photos

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