Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Bradley Lignoski, Thomas Ramier. Oct, 2018
Page Views: 1,346 total · 22/month
Shared By: braddean Lignoski on Oct 14, 2018
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Old-fashioned paternalism tried to cloister her, turning away would-be suitors. Alas, she fell in love with her own Johnny Castle, who learned there was more to dance than rhythm and choreography.

I had the time of my life. This could be love.


Right of "The Method" and just left of p1 of "Starfish Enterprise", this route climbs the large, clean dihedral.


Singles from BD .4 through #1,
Doubles in finger-sized widgets and down to 000 C3 or equivalent.
A few small offset cams are borderline necessary, a few small offset nuts are helpful.
The crux (last 6 feet of the route) is protected by a bolt. There is a nice bolted anchor with rap-rings.
Here is a more detailed description of the small stuff on the rack:
Doubles in red and yellow C3, one purple master cam or equivalent, one purple-grey offset TCU (metolius), one blue-yellow offset mastercam, a red-yellow offset X4, a "silver" DMM offoffset brassie, 2 yellow DMM offset nuts and one blue DMM offset nut, a few quick draws, a few extendable runners.