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> Upper Town Wall
> (f) Central Wall Area
Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner (Pitch 3 of the Golden Arch)
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in (f) Central Wall Area
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Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4 |
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Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Beast That Hath Two Backs, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0 |
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Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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DMT T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gnostic Diversions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Goblin, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3 |
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Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 |
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Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Noble Pursuits T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner (Pitch 3 of the Golden Arch) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pockets full of Sunshine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sisu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0 |
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Symptom of the Universe S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2+ |
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Uptown High Rise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Witch, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bradley Lignoski, Thomas Ramier. Oct, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,346 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | braddean Lignoski on Oct 14, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
Old-fashioned paternalism tried to cloister her, turning away would-be suitors. Alas, she fell in love with her own Johnny Castle, who learned there was more to dance than rhythm and choreography.
I had the time of my life. This could be love.
I had the time of my life. This could be love.
Location
Right of "The Method" and just left of p1 of "Starfish Enterprise", this route climbs the large, clean dihedral.
Protection
Singles from BD .4 through #1,
Doubles in finger-sized widgets and down to 000 C3 or equivalent.
A few small offset cams are borderline necessary, a few small offset nuts are helpful.
The crux (last 6 feet of the route) is protected by a bolt. There is a nice bolted anchor with rap-rings.
Here is a more detailed description of the small stuff on the rack:
Doubles in red and yellow C3, one purple master cam or equivalent, one purple-grey offset TCU (metolius), one blue-yellow offset mastercam, a red-yellow offset X4, a "silver" DMM offoffset brassie, 2 yellow DMM offset nuts and one blue DMM offset nut, a few quick draws, a few extendable runners.
Doubles in finger-sized widgets and down to 000 C3 or equivalent.
A few small offset cams are borderline necessary, a few small offset nuts are helpful.
The crux (last 6 feet of the route) is protected by a bolt. There is a nice bolted anchor with rap-rings.
Here is a more detailed description of the small stuff on the rack:
Doubles in red and yellow C3, one purple master cam or equivalent, one purple-grey offset TCU (metolius), one blue-yellow offset mastercam, a red-yellow offset X4, a "silver" DMM offoffset brassie, 2 yellow DMM offset nuts and one blue DMM offset nut, a few quick draws, a few extendable runners.
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