Mountain Project Logo

Super Sirene

5.10d, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > France > Calanques > Calanque d'En-Vau > La Sirene
Access Issue: Summer closures Details

Description

This is the classic (and well-bolted) multi-pitch sport route that ascends the main front face of the La Sirene buttress. All belay stations are bolted, and the entire route can be led with a large set of quickdraws. You can also bring a few small nuts and cams if you really want to sew up the crack between the bolts on the second pitch. Pitches go as follows: 1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 5a, 4) 4a. 

Location

Just uphill to the climber's right of the toe of the buttress, look for bolts on a steep slab and face that lead up towards a distinct 30-50ft finger crack on the second pitch.

Protection

bolts and bolted belay stations. Scramble down off the back side of the buttess at the top. Look for cairns and climbers trails marking walk-off options toward the beach or away from the beach. If descending towards the beach, scramble across the plateau at the top, turn right, and take the second wide gully down (not the first).