Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 235 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeff Dunbar on Oct 12, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

A newer - and therefore less-traveled and less-polished - multi-pitch "sport" route that carves a nice line up and over a striking fin of limestone with awesome exposure and views near the top. The route is fairly sustained. Depending on how you break it up in the middle pitches (where there are multiple belay stations to chose from in close proximity), pitches should go roughly as follows: 6b, 6b+, 6b, 6b, 6a+, 6b, 6c, 6b. The 6c pitch is very distinctly the physical and mental crux with wild exposure on the narrow upper fin. Be sure to cut hard left around the arete from the last visible bolt on the preceding pitch to reach the cozy "cowboy" belay station for the 6c pitch.

Location

Look for the words "Fatale trache" painted just above head-height at the base of a big yellow pillar roughly 70M to the right of the start of the area's namesake route, Arete du belvedere (6a+). This is the start of L'ame fatale (6c). You will see an obvious line of bolts heading up/right from here. If you come across another 5c trad route called "Chan-the" in your search for the start, keep moving right along the base for another 10-20M.

Protection

All pitches are well-bolted by Verdon standards and all are equipped with bolted belay anchors. 16-18 draws should suffice for strong parties, but be sure to include some extendable trad draws to reduce drag through some traversing bits. If 6C is at or near your limit, a light rack of small/medium nuts and cams may also be comforting. It is possible to rap from the top of the first pitch with a single 70M rope if things aren't going well at the start.

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