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Gollum's Cave

5.6, Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 17 votes
FA: C. Bell, G. Lacroix 1977
International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick > Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Gollum's Cave
Warning Access Issue: This property is on CFB Gagetown DetailsDrop down

Description

Starting just inside the cave, climb the wall on the right by following a crack past a block. Continue by stemming with your back on the backwall and exit the cave to the right. From the ledge, link up with Reindeer Land. This route is 5.9 if you don't use the backwall in the cave.
Variation: The original route was done in 2 pitches and headed right on easy terrain from the ledge after the cave.

Protection

Cams and Nuts - No anchor at the top (traverse right for a third pitch to reach an anchor)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB
 
[Hide Comment] I think this climb is 5.6 whether you use the back wall or not. Might feel like 5.9 if you have no clue how to hand jam.
Very pleasant route. May 2, 2022