Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Bridwell and John Syrett, 6/74|
|Page Views:||686 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Kraft on Oct 10, 2018|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
We started as for Freestone, at the large platform around the left of the base (and to the right of Upper falls). This gives you an extra approach pitch up easy low angle solid rock. I believe the traditional start involves scrambling up the center of the base of geek towers and continuing directly up from there. Our pitches were as follows,
p0 (easy approach pitch as mentioned above): Almost 60 meters up the low angle right facing corner. You should pass the Freestone p1 bolt about 20ft up. I set up a belay just under the left facing corner described below.
p1: Traverse slightly left and up into the left facing corner. Somewhat vegetated but the important parts were cleaned out. Awkward 5.9, 20m to a bolted belay.
p2: Climb into the chimney/corner from the left side of the belay, then onto the face, then into the main corner to a fixed belay. 5.7, 50m.
p3: Climb up the awkward chimney, traverse left a bit at the hanging teeth, then around the little corner and up the crack to a fixed belay in an alcove. More awkward 5.9.
p4: The crux, and the standout pitch on the route in both climbing and rock quality. Traverse left from the belay and head up the corner into the 10a offwidth. I found two tricky sections with a break in between and some cool full splits stemming. Don't drop your large cams early! Belay in the comfy alcove under the small roof, 50m.
p5/6: This is a single 5.8 pitch on the topo but we broke it into a short pitch to the fixed belay at the base of the chimney and another long pitch up the chimney. I think it would have been hard to stretch our 60m ropes (or double rack) to the top. I think the right/middle crack out the roof on the p4 belay is the best choice but there's still a tree to negotiate and some rough rock. The chimney is an aesthetic and unwelcome sight at this point in the route, watch out for the shifting chockstone.
10a felt like a fair grade for the offwidth. It's a ton of work for 10a but probably easier than p2 of "Ying-Yang" at Sentinel Creek or Generator or maybe even Book of Job. I liked having a #4 and #5 but I think it could be protected safely with one or neither.