Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
FA: Ketcher, Black brothers, Fred Beckey
Page Views: 930 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Oct 8, 2018
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Seems like the most popular line on the dome. Some clean, cool cracks and chimneys and an awesome face pitch. Also some bushes. A solid helping of bushes in fact. Lots of sandbagged ratings for this exist out there. I put my honest guesses here

P1 - 10a - Head up the flake that leads into a crack with some bushes and a piton in it. The crack basically dead ends into a steep headwall. At this point, make an improbable and exciting face traverse left past one crack, around the corner into another crack, and up to a very nice belay ledge.

P2 - 5.9 - Some steep cracks and flakes lead up off the belay. Enter one chimney type thing and pass a big oak bush. Get into another chimney formed, on one side, by a big pillar. Get to the top of this then traverse right to a stance.

P3 - 5.9 - Continue up the unique chimney that turns into a sort of offwidth. Some cracks and rails inside help you out. End up on a great, big, flat ledge. Save a 2 and 3 for the belay

P4 - 10c - Clip a bolt then make a tough face move to gain a jug. Step right into a bush then up into the chimney. Continue to the top passing an old bolt. The original route heads left at the top of the chimney, but continue up and right to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge.

p5 - 5.9 - Make some steep and awesome moves using Power Dome style pockets. After a couple bolts, the angle eases and it's runout to the top.


This thing is on the right side of the south face (the main face you can see from the road). Follow the trails which gains an awesome ledge system at the base of the south face. Traverse out right to the start. See photo of first pitch.


Nice walk off to the left. It's somewhat inconvenient to return to the base so, if this is all you're doing, leave your packs somewhere on the granite slabs on the approach. 


Single from small to .3 . Doubles from there to #3. Tri cams to protect the top of P5 (5.4).

All bolts have been replaced with ASCA hardware. I left the original bolt in place on the P4 chimney cause there's good gear right next to it. Gear is awkward to place so it's still nice to be able to clip the bolt, but you can do so with good gear all around.