Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Ketcher, Black brothers, Fred Beckey|
|Page Views:||930 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Prince on Oct 8, 2018|
|Admins:||Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1 - 10a - Head up the flake that leads into a crack with some bushes and a piton in it. The crack basically dead ends into a steep headwall. At this point, make an improbable and exciting face traverse left past one crack, around the corner into another crack, and up to a very nice belay ledge.
P2 - 5.9 - Some steep cracks and flakes lead up off the belay. Enter one chimney type thing and pass a big oak bush. Get into another chimney formed, on one side, by a big pillar. Get to the top of this then traverse right to a stance.
P3 - 5.9 - Continue up the unique chimney that turns into a sort of offwidth. Some cracks and rails inside help you out. End up on a great, big, flat ledge. Save a 2 and 3 for the belay
P4 - 10c - Clip a bolt then make a tough face move to gain a jug. Step right into a bush then up into the chimney. Continue to the top passing an old bolt. The original route heads left at the top of the chimney, but continue up and right to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge.
p5 - 5.9 - Make some steep and awesome moves using Power Dome style pockets. After a couple bolts, the angle eases and it's runout to the top.
All bolts have been replaced with ASCA hardware. I left the original bolt in place on the P4 chimney cause there's good gear right next to it. Gear is awkward to place so it's still nice to be able to clip the bolt, but you can do so with good gear all around.