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Routes in The Dude Wall
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Don't Mess With the Jesus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dude Abides, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dude, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just Checked In S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Life goes on, man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nihilists, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nothing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 715 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Robert S on Oct 5, 2018 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Description
This is a TR route done from the Dude Abides anchors. Lead that route first and then instead of using the crack system, climb straight to the anchors.
The crux seems to be pulling from the dirty ledge onto the wall above. After that, the going is easier slightly to the right but staying off the line of the bolted route, but it feels easier than 10a there. However, going literally straight up to the anchors after that pull feels harder than 10a because decent holds disappear.
Regardless, it's a fun bonus after leading the very fun 5.7.
The crux seems to be pulling from the dirty ledge onto the wall above. After that, the going is easier slightly to the right but staying off the line of the bolted route, but it feels easier than 10a there. However, going literally straight up to the anchors after that pull feels harder than 10a because decent holds disappear.
Regardless, it's a fun bonus after leading the very fun 5.7.
Location
The Dude Abides is the last bolted line on the wall. In the picture I've added, the left strand of the rope is on the 10a and the right on the 5.7.
If you don't want to lead the route first, you can carefully scramble down to a ledge from which anchors for a few climbs on this wall are easily accessible. Actually, this is the best way to access the wall as long as you are comfortable with the exposed, unprotected scramble down onto the ledge, as the trail approach is often dirty and overgrown.
If you don't want to lead the route first, you can carefully scramble down to a ledge from which anchors for a few climbs on this wall are easily accessible. Actually, this is the best way to access the wall as long as you are comfortable with the exposed, unprotected scramble down onto the ledge, as the trail approach is often dirty and overgrown.
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