Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Kidney Stones

5.8, Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: FRA: Field/Field (Sept 2018)
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Dome > W Face, Center
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Kidney Stones is named for the abundance of feldspar megacrysts as well as the route's proximity to Piss Easy. Pitch 3 is the highlight, featuring characteristic Tuolumne knobbing in a memorable position. Pitch 4 goes all the way to the top of the dome.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 90 feet): Climb a knobby black streak past three bolts up to and through a small roof crack. Continue up a fun easy handcrack to a nice ledge. Belay takes gear to 1".

Pitch 2 (5.7, 160 feet): Take the seldom-climbed right-hand variation to the second pitch of Piss Easy. Follow a loooong wavy flake system up to the big diagonal ledge halfway up the face. Move straight up off the ledge to a semi-hanging belay below the striped headwall.

You might consider leaving most of your gear (except a couple 1-2" cams) at this belay if planning to rappel from the top of P3.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 180 feet): Scale the striped headwall on excellent knobs. As the angle eases off, keep chugging past widely-spaced bolts (5.6 R) aiming for the far right edge of a right-arcing roof. Hop over the edge of the roof and go straight up the slab ending at a two-bolt anchor below a white right-facing corner.

Most parties will probably choose to rappel ~180' down Pitch 3 and then rappel ~170' down and climbers' left to the last rappel station on Shagadelic. This can be done with two ropes.

Pitch 4 (5.4, 120 feet): Follow the low-angle corner as it arcs up and right to the top of the wall. Gear belay and walk off.

Descent: Easy and incredibly gorgeous, but kinda long. Walk southward (toward Tenaya Peak / Cathedral Lake) along the top of the dome and descend 3rd class slabs and gullies to the Cathedral Lakes fishing trail which passes directly below the base of Medlicott Dome on its way back to the trailhead.

Location

This route starts on the same starting blocks as Piss Easy, but goes straight up the black streak with 3 bolts to the crack in the right edge of the roof.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" + 10 draws + two ropes for rappel

All hardware consists of 3/8" x 3" SS wedge bolts with 3/8" SS hangers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Markie White pulling the moves into the hand crack.
[Hide Photo] Markie White pulling the moves into the hand crack.
Markie White practicing her martial arts on the way to the end of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Markie White practicing her martial arts on the way to the end of the first pitch
Giselle climbs up to the top of pitch 3. Very featured rock here.
[Hide Photo] Giselle climbs up to the top of pitch 3. Very featured rock here.
Giselle leads the second pitch, aka the variation to pitch 2 of Piss Easy.
[Hide Photo] Giselle leads the second pitch, aka the variation to pitch 2 of Piss Easy.
At the first bolt on Kidney Stones. X across the sky! (Photo: Giselle Field)
[Hide Photo] At the first bolt on Kidney Stones. X across the sky! (Photo: Giselle Field)
Giselle jams the nice handcrack at the top of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Giselle jams the nice handcrack at the top of the first pitch.
Kidney Stones, pitch 3. Knob city! (Photo: Giselle Field)
[Hide Photo] Kidney Stones, pitch 3. Knob city! (Photo: Giselle Field)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

The Farley
South Lake Tahoe, CA
[Hide Comment] This Comment, like this route, has been edited as Derek edits the page and his bolt count:

The first two pitches of this route has added bolts on an existing variation to Piss Easy.

I first pointed this out here in the route comments on 12/18 when I observed the climb posted on MP. The route developer- Derek Field- contacted me and asked for documentation of the existing climb. I provided this to Derek and he acknowledged the issue. Derek asked me to remove my comment and stated that he wanted to "make things right." I suggested we develop a consensus from the community regarding the status of the climb and what should be done.

Unfortunately Derek removed the topo of his development and refused to share that information. After politely asking Derek for the topo and receiving an extremely insulting and confrontational response from him I again commented here regarding the issue. I suggested a consensus should be reached from area developers and locals regarding the climb and that the previously published topo of the route should have been shared to inform the conversation. It seems Derek has removed some of the bolts he installed on the first two variation pitches of Piss Easy.

While development of this type has occurred on Medlicott in the past, IMHO I do not believe the first two pitches of this climb should have been retrobolted.

Derek has attacked me from all fronts on this and I was just pointing out that he bolted over and added an anchor to an existing climb on Medlicott- a pretty classy and historic piece of stone. My only intent in this situation was to preserve what I believed to be a very classy crack climb at the grade in a traditional climbing venue. I understand that Derek may be embarrassed by his actions and I commend him for recognizing the issue- But don't kill the messenger. As I have stated to him I have no time, interest, or motivation to have any argument over this and will no longer be responding to him or this issue. Derek has made it clear he has no interest in opinions other than his own regarding his actions on public land. Mar 12, 2019
Derek Field
California
  5.8
[Hide Comment] While the routes Kidney Stones and Piss Easy do share crack sections in some places, the bolted sections on Kidney Stones are fully independent. Mar 12, 2019
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Great new route, Derek! Pitch one felt somewhat hard for 5.8, but was good for sure. Pitch 3 is awesome! Great knobbin' on Medlicott! Aug 20, 2019
Derek Field
California
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Glad you enjoyed it, Bill! Thanks for the feedback - you sure do know Tuolumne. Aug 23, 2019
Peter Murphy
Oakland
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Probably an ok route for a 5.7 leader, as there is only around 20-30ft of very well protected 5.8. The rest being 5.6ish. If you are solid on 5.8 it'll probably feel like vertical hiking most of the time

The line is kinda convoluted and p2 & 4 are pretty junky Aug 25, 2019