PRINT: Rock Climb Broken Arrow, Red River Gorge

Broken Arrow

5.9-, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2 from 6 votes
FA: Tracy Crabtree, Jeff Ashley, 1989
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Pebble Beach

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Start by climbing the chimney formed between the main wall and the pinnacle that The Arrowhead is on. I'm not sure if the route is supposed to end at the ledge, continue straight up between the two arêtes, or go inside the chimney from the ledge. If going between the two arêtes, protection looks impossible. If going up through the chimney, be prepared to belay from the top. Protection in the chimney is scarce but it is easy climbing.

Rappel off of a tree. The tree on the right side (when facing the wall) will be a cleaner rappel.

Location

Climb the chimney left of The Arrowhead.

Protection

Gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

possibly broken arrow? starts in the chimney in the back and traverses left to a flake on the face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

I may have found where this route goes, or did a variation or even FA. Who knows, but it was fun. Started in the short chimney back left of the arrowhead, but instead of going up through the notch, I traversed left, out on the face to hit a flake feature in the middle of the wall. Dirty edges lead to a finish ledge with a tree that's perfect for TR and rapping. Consensus was around 5.7, definitely not 5.9. Gear is tricky but all there. Worth doing if you're hanging out by the arrowhead. Apr 19, 2021