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Routes in East Face
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Ballet Dancer V3 6A |
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Bottom Line V9 7C |
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Butter V2 5+ |
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Death By Dizzy V2 5+ |
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Drop Dead V1 5 |
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Even Deader V2 5+ |
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Flake, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0-1 4+ |
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Honeymoon V2 5+ |
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Horn, The V0 4 |
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LongHorn, The V0-1 4+ |
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Mother's Milk V2 5+ |
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Mother's Milk Stand Start V0 4 |
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Rat Hole 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c V0- 4- |
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Rat Patrol V4 6B |
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Rat Patrol Sit V5 6C |
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Small Wall Left V0 4 |
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Splinters Return V2 5+ |
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Testpiece V5 6C |
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Testpiece Lite V3 6A |
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Testpiece Sit V5-6 6C+ |
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To the Moon! V2-3 5+ |
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Toothless V4-5 6B+ |
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Toothless Sit V5-6 6C+ |
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Toothless Sit (uber-contrived) V6 7A |
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Tweaky Shit V2-3 5+ |
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Tweaky Shit (variation) V4 6B |
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Tweaky Shit Traverse V3 6A |
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Unworthy V5 6C |
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Yuki Problem V8 7B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| GPS: | 40.76919, -73.97759 |
| FA: | Nick Falacci |
| Page Views: | 2,797 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Katz on Sep 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson |
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Description
A classic line of crimps up the face of the flake, on the east side of Rat Rock. Slightly contrived, but great movements.
Begin with hands on the two round crystal holds low on the face of the flake. Bump left hand to the flat crystal edge, and then a gaston (same hold as the right-hand side pull of Tweaky Shit). Set feet, and move right hand to the prominent crimpy "tooth" hold. Move directly to the rail (crux), either by tossing straight up or by utilizing a sneaky drop-knee. Top out through the big crystals above.
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