Type: Sport, Aid, 500 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 165 total · 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Sep 30, 2018
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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Description

Through a variety of rock situations traversing up and down two dramatic (but not big) towers in a spectacular high-mountain setting.

. . . The route description on this page assumes climbing in the "normal via ferrata" style -- making fully use of the steel cable and other fixed hardware for Aid with hands and feet. This route could also be climbed "free", using the cable and other hardward for Protection, not Aid. For ideas about using the "free" style, see [This route description 1] and [This route description 2].

. . . Normal name is Klettersteig Krokodil - (since "Klettersteig" is the German word for Via Ferrata).

. . . More info in the print guidebook Klettersteige Schweiz, by Iris Kürschner (www.Rother.de : 2013). But this route is not in the 2005 English translation.

. . . Difficulty on special Via Ferrata rating is 3+ on a scale of 1 to 6 (where 6 is Extrem), or C/D on scale of A to F.

. . . For some "warm-up" along the way to the start, try VF Beginners + Children.
. . . . . [ see on this Map ] .
. . . (Except that REI staff deleted the approach + climb track in Oct 2018. Maybe they'll put it back).

directions: Start at the bottom of the steel cable around (N46.6605 E8.4882). Follow the cable up to the top of Krokodil 1 around (N46.6607 E8.4873), then down on cable to a pass (N46.6609 E8.4872) from which could exit to SW -- or N a short ways across the pass to find bottom start of the steel cable for the second via ferrata up-climbing section - around (N46.6610 E8.4872). Up to top of cable (N46.6612 E8.4870), then down on cable thru notch to NE, and cross a cable bridge (which perhaps could be avoided). Down a little more on cable to a pass (N46.66169 E8.48661). From here can do down SW then S follow paint markings to return to Bergseehütte (track not shown on this map). Or could go for more climbing higher.

. . . interesting Styles of climbing: Skilled+strong rock climbers might want to try styles of climbing than the "normal" VF style - - > See details Here (or Here).

warning
: If using a normal Via Ferrata kit with normal VF procedures, falling on this route would likely result in serious injury (even death), because many of the cable anchors are not well located for Protection. Therefore if you fall, you're likely to hit something bad.
- - > details see Here (or Here)

Location

Approach: Start from Bergseehütte (N46.6575 E8.4849) - (which is at the finish of another VF Beginners+Children). Follow paint markings blue+white at first NNE then NE to reach bottom start of the steel cable, around (N46.6605 E8.4882).

- - > See on this Map
. . . . . (with downloadable GPS track)
. . . (Except that REI staff deleted it in Oct 2018. Maybe they'll put it back).

Protection

There's a steel cable and sometimes other hardware along this route which could be clipped with the carabiners of a normal via ferrata kit while climbing. But the specific locations (and overall frequency and spacing) of the anchor posts attaching the cable to the rock are not well designed to prevent injury in case of a fall.
- - > details see Here (or Here)
Therefore if using a normal Via Ferrata kit with normal VF procedures, falling on this route would likely result in serious injury (even death), because many of the cable anchors are not well located for Protection. If you fall, you're likely to hit something bad, such as a ledge or protruding rock, or cable anchor post, or other fixed hardware.

R protection rating? On much of this route, the positioning and frequency of the posts for attaching the steel cable to the rock is fairly "run out" (if protecting by a normal VF kit with "normal" VF procedure), even by via ferrata standards. Many other VF routes (especially outside Switzerland?) limit the distance of a fall more closely than this route - (though they're still not very well protected compared with many single-pitch Sport-climbing routes on outdoor rock). This particular route is in many parts much less well protected (when using a normal VF kit with "normal" VF procedures) than leading a typical single-pitch Sport-climbing route.

Sport Leading with a rope on this route is also possible: Could clip quick-draws to the steel cable just above each anchor post which attaches the cable to the rock. Keep in mind that the installers' selection of specific locations, and overall frequency and spacing, of the cable-anchor posts were not designed for protection of Sport Leading. So perhaps better if the Leader climbs with maximum + careful use of the fixed hardware and cable as Aid for hands or feet -- to be very sure of not falling -- Then the Follower(s) can then play with more interesting+challenging styles of climbing while on rope belay from above.

There are special equipment + strategies to get better Protection in case of an actual fall.
- - > details + options for better Protection see Here (or Here).

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