Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 388 total · 11/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Sep 29, 2018
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Access Issue: Seasonal closure for bird nesting. Details

Description

An excellent route with good protection. If you're new to sea-cliff climbing, be aware that although this is a well-protected route for the area, some of the placements may feel sketchy if you're unaccustomed to this style of climbing.  

1) 5.9, 90'. Climb the broken crack system which is directly below the rappel at from the midpoint ledge. As you ascend, stay on the face rather than moving into the corner to your left that is formed by the junction of the midpoint ledge with the rest of the wall (this is part of the route "Pel").
2) 5.10, 130'. Move to the right end of the ledge. Move up for a few feed and follow a good horizontal break traversing right until you can move up to a second horizontal break. Follow the obvious features upwards until you reach what appears to be a roof. Avoid the temptation to continue right on easy but chossy rock and instead step out left into space and move onto the headwall to the left. Continue upwards to the top of the cliff.

Location

From the top of the cliff at Castell Helen, rappel directly down to the obvious ledge halfway down the cliff. From here, you can continue your rappel (assuming you have a 60+ meter rappel rope!), or perform a second rappel from fixed gear at the ledge. The start of the route is a few feet above the high tide line, and is rarely wet unless there are large swells and/or big seas. At low tide, you're around 20-30 ft above the water. 

Protection

A full rack with plentiful wires.

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