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Routes in The Last Temptation Wall
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Last Temptation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Little Smokey Goes Surfing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pop Quiz S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Senior Mouse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | DKR |
| Page Views: | 545 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jake Dickerson on Sep 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Adventure! No chalk, widely spaced bolts, and technical slab climbing make this climb really engaging and fun.
Start with a difficult slab on holds that all seem to be facing the wrong direction. Continue questing up until the 4th bolt or so where you can get a good rest and remember to breathe again. The 2nd half of the climb weaves up and right, occasionally using the arete, until finally moving left to the chains at the top.
I thought the crux was on the slab right after the 2nd bolt. Really fun and a different style of climb for Tensleep.
Start with a difficult slab on holds that all seem to be facing the wrong direction. Continue questing up until the 4th bolt or so where you can get a good rest and remember to breathe again. The 2nd half of the climb weaves up and right, occasionally using the arete, until finally moving left to the chains at the top.
I thought the crux was on the slab right after the 2nd bolt. Really fun and a different style of climb for Tensleep.
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