Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Brandon Thau? and Chris LaBouty?|
|Page Views:||267 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Black on Sep 21, 2018|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P2: From the belay, climb up and left briefly through flakes, then trend up and right through more dirty flakes edges and somewhat marginal small gear, aiming towards a tree/bush belay stance on a ledge. Belay at the ledge. As of summer 2018 there is a red sling and rap ring there around a small tree. Dirty pitch, not that great, 5.8+
P3: The money pitch! I hope you taped up because you're going to need those wide OW skills! From the belay, head up loose but easy terrain to the base of the vertical 4" splitter crack running up the headwall. Either use your OW magic or layback a small crack to the left inside of the main crack for a few moves, topping out the 4" wide bulge. Cop a short rest, then head into the next vertical OW bulge, this time 5" wide utilizing your OW wizardry. After topping out that bulge, head up and slightly left on pretty loose terrain to a series of cracks running straight up the wall and finishing at a small bush at the top of the buttress. As of summer 2018 there is a red sling and rap ring on the bush. Awesome pitch, 5.10+.
I've heard you can walk off to the west and take the gully down, but I have not done this although it looks quite doable fairly easily. Possibly the recommended descent. I did two 60-70m rappels to the base, on my way down pulling off HUGE deathblocks, so hopefully most of the large loose blocks aren't of worry anymore if rapping. If you do rappel, you'll need two ropes and some slings to replace old tat, and have the first person rapping down clean off any loose rock to lessen the chance of pulling some down if ropes snag.