All Locations > Washington > Central Region > Banks Lake > Rdside Rock > Rdside Rock West

Creamsicle Buttress

Name: Creamsicle Buttress
Rating: 3.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Roadside Rock West

L › R R › L A › Z

	Airy Butt Easy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Aqualine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Calanques S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Creamsicle Buttress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Creamsicle Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Croissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Danton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fin de Siecle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Free Tibet S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hello Dalai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kurosawa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Money S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Panache S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pas De Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Prophylactic Crowbar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rashomon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Robespierre (aka Red Bull) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Seven Samurai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Supprehension S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Whatever it Costs You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	White Lung Disease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Yojimbo 用心棒 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type:	Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	47.88353, -119.09292
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,347 total · 27/month
Shared By:	Curt Veldhuisen on Sep 21, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Creamsicle Buttress is a spectacular route up a proud feature with great rock and good protection at a modest grade. The start is a little complicated to reach, but worth the effort.

The first 40 feet is grubby class 4 to a ledge with a large bush. The climbing improves sharply as you work up and left onto the buttress, following bolts out to the airy buttress edge. The diagonal finger traverse here is the 5.8 crux. Although the route goes in a single lead, there is a bolted anchor around midway. Or belay at the bush, reducing rope drag for a long second pitch to the top. All belays have panoramic views across Banks Lake.

Descent
From the top of the Creamsicle, a bit of class 3/4 up and right leads to ledges and easier scrambling to the south. Or rappel to the midway anchor (recently replaced) and down to base.

Location

Driving in from the south, the Creamsicle Buttress is prominent as the left skyline of Roadside Rock (see photo).The Buttress starts about 100 feet above the water near the top of the Aqualine crag. Getting there requires walking the main climbers trail around the south end and dropping to the lake edge. Climb one of the three 5.9 routes (Supprehension, Prophylactic Crowbar or Aqualine) or scramble up the gully to the right. From there, walk ~50 feet left to double bolts that start Creamsicle. No doubt there's a scrambling alternative, but it would be just as complicated and less aesthetic.