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The MCR Route
Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 3
> Alpine Rock
> Sangre de Crist…
> Little Bear Peak
This route ascends a prominent rib system to the left of the northwest face route described in Roach's guidebook. It seemed discrete enough and interesting enough to be worth mentioning. This route keeps you out of the major gully system on the NW face.
Climb up rock and some scree to the base of a rib that is to the left of a large, black water mark that is to the left of the black hand. Choose a line to the crest of the rib. This goes anywhere from Class 3/4 with the occasional Class 5 move to 5.4. The rock is generally solid, and the route finding is straightforward. Follow the rib until it levels out and joins the face above. Look up and to the right for a smaller rib that goes diagonally to the left. Join this rib system and climb up Class 4 - 5 terrain until you reach the ridge. You should gain the ridge to the left of the third bump from the summit (see the beta photo).
From Lake Como, follow the jeep road until you can see a line to the base of the rib system that is to the left of a large water mark to the left of the black hand (see the beta photo).
It is best to do this without a rope. If desired, a light alpine rack should suffice, there were ample places to put protection.