Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Marsupial Wall
> (e) The Colosseum
Alex Reed Memorial Route
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (e) The Colosseum
|
|
Alex Reed Memorial Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Bad Meets Evil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Captive Honor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Devastator, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Dread Zone, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
|
|
Father of the Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Flavian Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Holy Smoke S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Hypogeum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Inglorious Bastard S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Ludus Magnus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
New Paradigm S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Onslaught, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Paranoid S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Reed's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Retrospect, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Signs of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Sun and Steel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Supernaut S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Symptom of the Universe S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Wailing Soul, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
War Pig S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | P1: Chris Hatzai P2: Alan Collins P3: Chris Hatzai /// Routes prepped and bolted by Alan Collins and Alex Reed |
| Page Views: | 2,115 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Sep 14, 2018 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
The Alex Reed Memorial Route lies in the center of the Colosseum Wall in the Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park. This 3 pitch beauty offers 2 stellar pitches of 5.11+/5.12- climbing and a 5.10 adventure pitch! This route is fully bolted and leads to the summit of the cliff.
P1. 5.12a Start up the first pitch pulling on OK holds leading to a large flake system. Ride the huge jugs up and right for 2 bolts and arrive at a rest before the crux. Just like any other classic at Smith, the crux of this route travels through the best rock on the route; it’s powerful, cryptic and hard. Clear the crux section and keep making moves up and right. At the end of the first pitch lies a redpoint crux. Pull those last moves and clip the first pitch anchors above.
P2. 5.11d Pitch 2 starts out up a perfect slab of volcanic tuff. Crimps, tiny edges and perfect finger pockets characterize this amazing pitch. While seemingly not having a defined crux section, this 8 bolt section of route climbs consistent with the grade through every move. A must do pitch if climbing this route!
P3. 5.10 Pitch 3 is the summit pitch that leads to the top of the cliff. After climbing the amazing stone on pitch 2, prepare to deal with some crumbly stuff on pitch 3. While not the best climbing of the route, this pitch does lead up and left to the summit of the cliff. After reaching the top of the Colosseum Wall, take in a perfect view of Smith Rock and the Cascades just beyond.
This route was one of Alex’s last routes he developed with Alan Collins before his untimely passing. Unfortunately Alex never got to send this amazing line. I feel honored to have been able to fill those shoes and help establish this great route with Alan. Thank you Alex for everything you’ve done at Smith Rock.
P1. 5.12a Start up the first pitch pulling on OK holds leading to a large flake system. Ride the huge jugs up and right for 2 bolts and arrive at a rest before the crux. Just like any other classic at Smith, the crux of this route travels through the best rock on the route; it’s powerful, cryptic and hard. Clear the crux section and keep making moves up and right. At the end of the first pitch lies a redpoint crux. Pull those last moves and clip the first pitch anchors above.
P2. 5.11d Pitch 2 starts out up a perfect slab of volcanic tuff. Crimps, tiny edges and perfect finger pockets characterize this amazing pitch. While seemingly not having a defined crux section, this 8 bolt section of route climbs consistent with the grade through every move. A must do pitch if climbing this route!
P3. 5.10 Pitch 3 is the summit pitch that leads to the top of the cliff. After climbing the amazing stone on pitch 2, prepare to deal with some crumbly stuff on pitch 3. While not the best climbing of the route, this pitch does lead up and left to the summit of the cliff. After reaching the top of the Colosseum Wall, take in a perfect view of Smith Rock and the Cascades just beyond.
This route was one of Alex’s last routes he developed with Alan Collins before his untimely passing. Unfortunately Alex never got to send this amazing line. I feel honored to have been able to fill those shoes and help establish this great route with Alan. Thank you Alex for everything you’ve done at Smith Rock.
0 Comments